kiltedskier's dashboard

http://www.vholdr.com/node/43180#

Oh, by the way, I've said from day 1 I'm not target audience for the Battery but what an awesome bike for technical, switchback laden, rocky, rooty, sketchy, singletrack downhills! So easy to manual and pop the front wheel off wee drops/roots etc. Some of the bigger bikes just couldn't deal with the tight stuff.
And of course lots of nut room!

Well, an update guys. First off this has been a MAJOR pain in the ass. I noticed in the pinkbike review they also had to run a spacer on the non drive side to clear the swingarm - saint cranks.

I ditched the Saints onto the Shockwave as I couldn't convert them to 22/36 (specific crank sets for single or double chainrings, v strange!)

The Atlas set up didn't work at all.

Got hold of a Truvativ Gigapipe 73e x 128 ISIS BB - used with Race Face Turbines then a North Shore DH. Chainline was dire but at least I had clearance non drive side. Plan was to then space chainrings inboard using alloy spacers/longer bolts - Wheels Manufacturing do these. Instead bought a Truvativ 73e x 118 ISIS - big problem - back to hitting the non drive side swingarm. Tried with a set of FSA ISIS cranks that had a massive Q-factor; cleared the swingarm but inner chainring was rubbing the CD back plate - would have needed tabs grinding off. This set up would have worked with a single ring up front.

So finally, the day before going to the Alps, I got a Saint double/bash 83mm BB and the Race Face spacer kit to convert 83mm cranks down to 73/68. (This is made specifically for people with swingarm clearance probs and also for bikes with 73 shell but 150 hub spacing to sort out the chainline problem that causes). Success at last, chainline still not great in the middle ring but chainring spacers will help this.

Outside of the non drive side swingarm is def about 5mm further out than drive side and it's this that has caused the problems. I need to know how/where to make specific measurements to clarify this issue.

The double set up is as follows (pics to follow)
Blackspire now do a Stinger with the e-type front mech mount (E-13 also do a DRS backplate that holds an etype mech but it's scary expensive!) It's about £35, bargain. Needed a wee bit of Dremel action on the front mech just to rotate it forward to give more tyre clearance as I'm on Fire 2.4's with big tread blocks!
Problem solvers bolt on cable stop mounted on the seat tube.
front shifter and cable!

Bob's your uncle a Battery that can be ridden back up hill.

NOW I can say I bloody love it!

Gus

Umm, hello?!

John had SLiX der hangers in the States a few months ago BTW

Looking to swap a medium for a small if possible! The GF was trying full suss on the SLiX but it's a bit big for her. I may just seel it as a frameset though.

Does anyone have a the geometry measurements for the small and medium SLiX? Actual top tube, seat post centre centre and centre top are the key ones I need.#

Cheers,
Gus

Mark, yup I'm in Perth, you?

It's not a small by any chance??

If you are going for 6" just build the DNA frame properly and keep Kinesis the hell away from it lol

Mojo and TF Tuned have all manner of shock bolts - give them a shout with the size you need.

Gus

One of the key things you need to do is to bring the pivot point back between middle/outer ring a la Commencal, Orange, Santa Cruz. The original pivot point worked ok with the old 24/36-38/46-52 ring sizes but is a bit too far out there with 22/32/42-44. DNA pivot point was pretty good. Don't go too long travel on it either. Remember the ol girl started out with 2-3 inches!

Oh and make a long Battery as well while you're at it ;-)

I have the 9.5" travel model.

I use an MRP mini me with no problems

Here's the new style ones on my old black 9.5.
That white Shockwave looks fantastic, I've never seen that before.

Gus

No problem! Superstar are getting a good reputation in the UK for headsets/BB's etc and the idea on the IRB is sound, I don't remember killing a Shimano cartridge unit when I was younger. – kiltedskier, on May 22, 2009 10:26

That's a problem with those shocks - such massive tuning differences which makes buying them aftermarket or second hand a nightmare. Bought the older version to try and tame the SLiX bobbing and it didnt make much difference. Then tried the same model on a Kona and the ProPedal lever practically locked it out! Need to get mine back to Mojo (Fox UK) to increase the ProPedal damping.

There are a few really good quality ISIS BB's now so don't write it off just yet! I've never had any problem with the Race Face Signature series (+ the bearings have grease ports) and the SKF's are apparently fantastic. http://www.superstarcomponents.com/IS... is a nice set up as well, I'll probably try this one if I ever can't get replacement bearings for my RF's.
I'd say it isn't worth it if the cranks/rings are ok.
Gus

I used a 200x50 air can on mine (2nd hand and was listed as a 190 on ebay!) and it felt fine, just play around with the VPS until you're happy. I actually like a fairly steep HA as I ride mainly slower techy stuff rather than baws oot downhill!

http://www.raceface.com/comp/inst/RID...
Ok I'm confused by this. RIDE crankset; RF say you can use 73mm + chain device but not 73mm + E-type mech. Both are 2.5 mm wide mounts - ie 0 spacers used but not sure why a mech wouldn't work. Wrong chainline?
Atlas, Diablous and Evolve XC all say you can use 73mm chainguide or e-type mech.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mo...

Bargain! They have XT e-type for £17.99 also. Bare in mind that the E-13 DRS has an optional E-type back plate (mech mounts straight to the back plate) if you want to keep a chain device on (this is the way I am going with the Battery with a Problem Solvers clamp on cable stop).

What model of Race Face crankset is it?