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1950s GE Push-Button Stove ~ Where to Buy Burners and Switches?

I have a GE Push-button stove from the 1950s. Has four burners/surface heating elements; each element is controlled by four [push-button] heat settings, plus "off". For only one of the elements do all of the heat settings work. For the other three elements, only 1-2 of the heat settings work.

Question 1: Does this problem sound like an issue with the heating elements, or an issue with the switch [push-buttons]?

Question 2: Where can I purchase both the heating elements and the switch units?

Question 3: Where can I find a repair guide to work on the Clock, which is a clock and oven timer combo?

Question 4: Where can I find info on how to remove the oven door? I think it should just lift up and off; but I hestitate to try this with any real force, if that isn't actually the correct removal method. But I cannot clean the stove as well as I'd like to with the oven door in place.
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  • Try http://www.antiqueappliances.com/inde...

    We have a similar stove and similar problems, and I was doing research. We aren't going to fix ours, but more because we are switching to gas.

    Good luck!
    • Thank You, old Galoot. I did get some very useful info from the website you gave; he was very helpful, answering my Q about how to remove the oven door, etc. I did not purchase a burner element from him, tho, simply because I found one much cheaper on eBay.
      I also got info on how to check whether the problem was with the burner or the switch; involves using an ohm meter to test each of the connections on switch and burner. Simple procedure, just takes a little time and trouble. [My problem was with the burner.]
      Thanks again for taking the time to reply.
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    I have emailed everyone I could find on the internet to find the same items, I have had no luck. I am so frustrated at this point. Any help would also be appreciated. I have a 1956 GE Liberator single oven stove that has push buttons.
    • Linda - I found out that the problem with my push-button GE was not with the switch [switchbank], but with the burner [element]. I found a replacement burner thru this site on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?.... [Seller's Name: mrchgoparts; ebay item #120321952891.]

      Here is info on testing whether the problem is with the switchbank or the element:
      Each element is actually two coils in one, each sharing a same common terminal. You can test these for continuity with an ohm meter to see if they are good. If the ohm meter reads at all, then you know that coil is good. No reading, and the coil is bad. Switches are more difficult to test without opening them up. If you know an element is good, then the switch is the problem.

      For more info, try contacting: Austin Jowers; www.AntiqueAppliances.com
      e-mail: austin@antiqueappliances.com
      Phone: 706-782-3132
      ----------

      Hope this Helps!
      Karin, aka Cotton
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  • I bought a new house with 1950 GE kitchen everything works perfect and I'm willing to sale it since I'll put a gas stove and oven please let me know for pix and make me an offer.

    edkanafani@gmail.com
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  • I have same problem that has been reoccuring. First the element went out and we replaced the burner. Then it actually melted in front of me while using. We replaced it with another but it does not work on all "heat ranges" ? AND...some of the other burners are showing the same problem...not all heat ranges working. One would think that if burner is out (no ohms--see above posting) then none of the heat ranges would work rather than just some? Is there better instructions for testing the switches and getting them apart to do the chekcing. This range is for 3 season cabin in northern MN and I would hate to have to lay out money on another since "break ins and thefts" are common. We just leave door open and take valuables out. Anys suggestions welcome!
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