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I’m confused

HP dv 7 caps lock and num lock lights constantly blinking

I just bougt this laptop and it has the 64-bit vista, one of the two problems i am having is that the caps lock and num lock lights are blinking constantly. Even if i press the button to turn them on they keep blinking. WTF? Also, when i am viewing videos online and try to maximize the video the screen goes blank and only shows the cursor, hitting the Esc key takes it back to the small version. Once again, WTF? This computer has the intel processor and graphics card. I know there have been issues with the amd processors but haven't heard anything about intel.
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  • is the processor can be replaced without replacing the motherboard?
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  • This reply was removed on 2011-08-08.
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  • Ananta, yes ... it's quite simple. On the dv7 models, there is a slide-lock that can be loosened by turning two screws. It's very self-explanatory, however getting to that point is kind of messy. When disassembling the laptop, "label" the screw locations or tape them to where they were removed.
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  • Ananta, the motherboard may not be exactly the same, but the processor mount and heat-sink configuration appear to be very similar. BTW, I just purchased a new processor from starmicro.net. I'll let you know if the quality is any good. With any luck, I'll have it installed by tomorrow or the next day ... depending on when it delivers.
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  • I’m angry
    Very frustrated with the processor not being the problem! Typically, if the mother board is "fried," the computer will not even turn on ... so I will not replace it. If it were the mother board, I wouldn't replace it anyhow as the first one died at twelve months and this one died at 18 months. I suppose, if I were lucky, the next one would last 24 months ... and I will get a new laptop before then anyhow.

    It bears repeating, that it's no surprise there are so many negative posts about HP's "dv" series of Pavilion laptops. Perhaps there are a few that last five or six years, but I highly doubt it. Many people are switching to Acer and Dell, but I look at those from Samsung and Toshiba as well. Maybe I'll even think about a Mac or just a netbook.
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  • I’m frustrated
    I've got into the same problem. NUM and CAPS lock are blinking constantly (without stopping) which means that normal HP "blinking guide" cannot be applied here. I bought new AMD Turion CPU and replaced it - still the same crap. I believe either GPU or MB got fried up since (as jemihami mentioned) GPU and CPU are both on a single sink. I mean, how dumb these "professionals" from HP should be to place CPU (!) AMD (!!!!!!!!) and GPU on the same sink...

    Geeeezzzee...
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  • The problem is the integrated NVIDIA video chip. The chip either becomes "unseated" or is destroyed by the heat. Unfortunately, most computer repair shops will not, or can not, do the work to repair or replace the damaged chip; instead they will replace the mother board.

    While my notebook sits in pieces, on my loft table, I am trying to determine my next move. I think I will try to re-seat the chip. If that fails, I will attempt to remove and reball the chip ... something that I am not equipped to do and really was hoping to avoid. If that fails, I guess buying a new motherboard is the last option.
    • I would strongly recommend you not to proceed in this direction. GPU's replacement in 90% of the cases is not effective. Motherboard replacement is not cost-effective (keep in mind that almost each laptop's MB is proprietary so you'll end up with approx. $400 after repairs).

      Also, considering the fact that laptop doesn't even get to POST phase, I should say that I'm 100% positive that it's MB's issue and has nothing to do with GPU.

      Just buy new laptop and sell the one you have for parts - you should be able to get about $100 for it since you still have a lot of parts functioning.
    • i had mother board replaced , $150 .. worked for aprox 10 hr.
      should have sold it for $100 for parts??? i paid $700 for it.. now its the same problem again.. should i scrap it...?...
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  • 2
    I had the same problem. At first hard reset worked for my laptop. I took the memory and placed it again. It worked for several months. Then I was having the same problem. I then took all the parts off. I wasnt planning on buying a motherboard so I thought of reheatig n reballing the chip. I had nothing to lose since I was going to junk my laptop anyway and buy a new one. I came into this video in youube where he placed his motherboard in an over n heated it at 300 degrees and it worked. I didnt have the gadget to reheat n reflow the GPU. I did try it with a hair dryer n wrapped the other parts with aluminun foil n only exposing the GPu. The hairdryer didnt worked. There are videos in youtube that shows how to reheatn reflow. Anyways. as i said i saw a video on youtube where he placed it in the oven. There are only two videos I saw at first I "theres no way i'm doing that" but after days of trying to reheat I decided to try it since I was going to junk it anywyas after that. I was so shocked that it worked. I improvised the heat sink. I placed a penny on top of the gpu with thermal paste in between. i have read somewhere that pennys are made of copper n copper is good in conducting heat from one object to the other. a copper shim can be used but i couldnt find it in nerby electronic shops so i used a penny. My laptop is working again. I also fixed my co-workers dead hp tx1000. he already junked it because the comp technician said that the MB is fried fromoverheating n it needs to be replaced estimating 400 to 500 dollars to fixed it. i did he same process as mine and it up n working again after baking it :).
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  • I’m sad and frustrated!
    Thanks for all of the ideas... we actually found the 2.2Ghz AMB Mobile Turion X2 online for about $130, so we bought it because HP said they could replace the CPU for about $380 - so we thought we really have nothing to lose because shipping to and from HP would take on at least another $40 or more.

    We finally got it back together and the stupid cap lock light is still blinking. I will never buy HP again! You shouldn't have to pay for customer service!
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  • I bought my processor for $10. Of course, as we all now know, it's not the CPU, it's the dedicated NVIDIA video chip.
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  • HP is garbage!!! Hewlett-Packard my a**!!! more like HELLA POINTLESS to buy!!!!!!!!!
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  • Bryan, my LED blinked at a once per-second rate. I replaced the CPU and attempted to re-seat the video chip to no avail. It is now in pieces, in a paper bag, somewhere in my closet ... along with other old/spare computer parts.

    Someday, if I can find a deal, I'll replace the mother board. That should give it a couple more years of life, although it probably isn't worth the time or money as the notebook was mediocre, at best.
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  • I have got same problem with 2 "DV"s...
    The onliest difference is that one of them repeats the 2 blinks after a while which means that its rebooting all the time...

    I tried all of the methods.
    1) onboard battery + ext battery + charger removed 4 a long time
    2) memory ram, i changed the modules, take of 1 of every slot, put in new ones
    3) changed the cpu
    4) changed screen
    5) made reballing to gpu and to the southbrigde twice

    Still the HP codes say its corrupt Bios. I didnt flash Bios as y dont know if i can do it by usb-flashing without screen?

    I really wouldnt like to stop repairing them but im nearly out of ideas :(
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  • I’m thankful
    mine is 4 blinks on caps lock and scroll lock repeatedly. i'll try the ideas posted and see if anything works. hp really sucks! i have never bought hp after this one, i've preferred Acer since then.

    Update:
    aaah, my laptop was fixed! i don't know which one fixed but here is my case:
    1. when laptop was still ok, i set my laptop not to turn of when the lid is closed.
    2. when my laptop was about to restart, i closed it. that was the time it did not continue to startup, and 4 blinks on caps lock and num/scroll lock were observed, repeatedly.
    3. reseat RAM, no change
    4. pressed the power button for long while battery and power cord not connected. no change
    5. transferred RAM to other slot, no change
    6. pressed the power button many times, for long with no batt and power cord. still no change
    7. tried to repeat what i did when my laptop was ok. Partly opened the lid, while powering it up. IT WORKED!!!

    duh i don't why, but it worked!!! thanks to this thread :):):)

    But still not buying any HP product anymore in the future.
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  • I had a Pavilion DV6200 CTO and with this no video problem what I did was heat up the bottom (Suffocate it basically) turn it off quickly and then flip it over then turn it on, its been a while since i have had that laptop, but that is what i had to do. If that helps anyone
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  • what is this hell HP people wasting money on this hp product and HP support are deaf to listen and support. Truth is that hp is just making fool the people while they are very poor quality products, hell on hp i will never gonna buy any hp product i have brought new laptop which ran only 4 months. bull shit hp
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  • what is this hell HP people wasting money on this hp product and HP support are deaf to listen and support. Truth is that hp is just making fool the people while they are very poor quality products, hell on hp i will never gonna buy any hp product i have brought new laptop which ran only 4 months. bull shit hp
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  • what is this hell HP people wasting money on this hp product and HP support are deaf to listen and support. Truth is that hp is just making fool the people while they are very poor quality products, hell on hp i will never gonna buy any hp product i have brought new laptop which ran only 4 months. bull shit hp
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  • hp making video chips for plastic, lol bull shit hp
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  • My two cents.

    I have repaired many, many... ie 50+ or more DV series notebooks that suffer from graphics cards overheating and solder consequently cracking. when I have repaired them, I've offered 3 months warranty, and only a few have come back.

    Use BGA liquid flux before soldering - $5-10 on ebay... clear, no clean stuff..
    use a cheap heat gun... ie paintstripper, on low power, about 1-2 cm away from the GPU chip... for approx 120-140 seconds.. moving it around the edges of the chip in a circular motion...
    DONT PUT THE HEAT GUN ON FULL POWER.... OR you'll watch all those little surface mount components start running away from you....game over...
    DONT BUMP THE BOARD WHILE ITS HOT... and let it fully cool down to room temp before touching it..

    Polish the heat sinks with some wet and dry sandpaper.
    clean the top of the GPU and CPU.
    Clean the fans - obviously...

    Some models its worth adding an extra bit of copper sheet between the GPU and heat sink, coated both sides with thermal paste, to improve heat dissipation.

    Use top quality (not pirated ebay top quality, by the way) thermal paste.
    All thermal paste I've bought on Ebay overseas for cheap has been pirated... its worth paying the extra from a local supplier.

    I've done it on heaps... but its not for the faint hearted.
    Don't complain if it doesn't work OK...

    Please note this will only fix the GPU issue, not the BIOS issue or whatever... check your led flashing codes....

    I have a dv6 that interestingly runs ok on battery, but not on charger, either with the battery removed or with it installed. it also turns off if the charger is plugged in..
    symptoms are caps and num lock flashing twice... on battery however, it boots fine.... then plug in charger and it turns off.

    I read on a forum by someone called chilligirl she had heard of this issue, but didnt provide any further info... but I suspect the dc port itself may be faulty... as I have tried it with a good charger...

    Finally, I have tried the GPU repair on a tx series without success... even though the lights reported a GPU fault... i ended up buying a replacement mainboard... and I noticed that while both boards appeared identical in every way, the replacement board had 2 different colour surface mount caps, PC168 and PC160.. both located between the memory slots and the BIOS battery.

    THIS MAY JUST BE a different revision board, and may have nothing to do with the problem, but I thought I'd mention it... I dont have the caps, the replacement board fixed the issue anyway... but given the replacement board was second hand... they probably fixed it and then resold it to me... worth checking...

    OK... on a final note...I understand that a lot of people have issues with HP.
    I repair all brands of computers... they all have their faults.
    HP's biggest issue with their notebooks is the GPU issue - an issue identified as the fault of NVidia, not HP.
    Yes, the could have put better cooling in their notebooks, but given they were designing it to suit the heat specs of the NVidia GPU... can you really blame them?

    Furthermore... to the people criticising them for putting the GPU and CPU on the same heat sink... sorry, but almost EVERY manufacturer does that, in case you haven't noticed.

    I have, for example, a HP Laserjet 4000TN, that I have used in my business every day for years, usually printing 20-100 copies per day... that is pre 2000 hardware... never skipped a beat.... I also run a HP Visualise X-Class graphics workstation as my main web and file server, it is also pre 2000 vintage...and still works fine....
    So, don't wipe out a company just because they have some bad apples...they all do. And no, I don't work for HP, I run my own repair business. repairing out of warranty equipment irrespective of brand.

    Finally... people on here recommending Dell!!!
    You have seriously GOT TO BE KIDDING!

    I've been a laptop tech for nearly 12 years...
    They, in general, are crap.
    Which other company sold laptops with a known design fault?
    One that would lead to the structural failure of the top cover and hinges - usually the left one, after a little over 1 year?
    A fault that they didn't just do this on one model, they did it through their entire range of Pentium II, III and early Pentium IV lattitude notebooks.
    IE THREE GENERATIONS OF NOTEBOOKS.

    but hey... they lasted a year... so so what hey, why fix it, I guess was their mentality.

    Dont get me started on the Dell XPS series notebooks... although, while in fairness, it is partly an NVidia issue as well, the poorly configured BIOS failed to turn the fans on soon enough, or run them fast enough, to keep them cool...
    A note if anyones fixing them, make sure you patch the bios to make the fans run faster, sooner... I*8Kfan may help but I dont think it sees all three fans ...

    Now I could go into Dell exploding batteries and the like... but you can youtube that, and afterall, it really was their suppliers fault for that one.

    I'm sure dell make some fine equipment, I'd just never promote them as known for quality, reliability, or the like.

    Toshiba, yes, IBM Thinkpads, before they sold the Thinkpad division to Lenovo, yes, but not Dell, or Acer.

    OK hope this helps someone out there...
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  • I have given up on HP. They don't care, so I don't care. As for the person that recommends Toshiba notebooks over Dell ... whatever.
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  • hey jeef,
    i got the same probs...cap lock and num light blink so as u refer here should i unplug the charge unhook the battery and press for 10 sec..help me plzzzzz
    hskpurul@gmail.com
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  • In my case, it was the bios battery (CR2032), I had the blinking lights and nothing worked. I replaced the bios battery that is accessible from the memory cover and the DV6 is up and running again :)
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  • i have been getting this issue quite often recently. i do bios reset by pressing down the four arrow keys+power button simultaneously and it shuts down the computer. Then, i wait sometime and turn on the power switch and issue is fine usually and i get my screen working, which otherwise is black when these two keys are blinking...hope this helps someone. Thanks
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  • Hi, I have the same problem with mxy compaq Presario CQ61.
    It freezes random time, caps and numlock flashing 2 times some pause and adgain flash 2 times.....
    What can I do to fix it?
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  • HP Pavilion dv4... The problem solved!
    I turned of , pressed the button for more than 30 mins and nothing.... I had 4 blinks, which means problem with graphic card.
    Then I followed the instructions from here: http://h10010.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/do...
    I removed my RAM (both of them), I was trying to clean a little bit all the stuff and then turned on. My comp is working now :) Thanks guys!
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  • For laptop, HP is not a good brand.
    I have a HP pavilion DV6 1330 ev laptop.
    First battery was broken. (Later I found it is a common failure for HP laptop).
    Now 2 LEDs are blinking, I think it is CPU problem.
    I newer recommended HP laptops.
    According to my current understanding, Toshiba is good.
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  • To the guy repairing laptops:
    I also do this as a part time job. I am a student but I take myself seriously when it comes to this repairing think I do. So I would like to comment that if the procedure you described is a "DIY reflow guide using everyday items" then that's ok. But I think by the way you describe it that this is the procedure YOU follow to fix other people laptops.

    I also do what you described but I do it with a reflow oven on the bottom to keep temperature at 120-130C, a hot air reworking station with digital temperature and air flow controll on top to reach 230-240C and two k-type sensor temperature meters to give me feedback so as I can control the reflow station properly and increase temperature smoothly and safely. I also use some genuine Kingbo flux. (That flux is special. You can google and youtube this if you want.) This is not very expensive equipment (about $500 worth) and I think anyone who repairs laptops professionally should invest at least in equipment like that if you want to do the right job.

    About the "it is not HP's fault but NVIDIA's":
    You may say that you don't work for the company but I will comment here that you are at least biased in favor of them. I agree it is an NVIDIA fault. But how should a company like HP react in such a case? A company that respects its customers would try to cover them considering that this is a common fault. Apple used this GPU on early 2008 MBP's and you know what it did? It offered a 3 year extended guarantee for this specific issue. These MBPs are aluminium case laptops with great heat dissipation so very few of them where really affected. You know why? Because they had a much better cooling system far beyond the minimal specs NVIDIA provided. HP not only screwed it by underestimating the required cooling system but then chose to ignore the issue this caused. Couldn't HP provide a solution? Maybe an extended guarantee for the unlucky ones? A recall for a hardware fix (better cooling system)? Even just a bios update to increase fan speed for the remaining units? Nothing! They didn't even acknowledge the issue. Even now, their official answer is that there is no issue and that failing rates are within acceptable limits! A company that respects itself and its customers would support the customers and then ask NVIDIA to compensate the damage. Not supporting each other like big corporate partners they are! So as a customer I will make sure they both realize who is paying their money by not buying a laptop from them again.

    About the Dells:
    I am a fix guy so being an expert about a brand/series/model isn't good about it. It means that it breaks easily so I get a lot of them to fix. This isn't the case with Dells. They are not no1 choice but they also don't break like you say they do. Also, for some people like me, it is better to have an average quality product with a top-notch support than an above average quality product with no support at all. When it comes to Dell, they even come to your place and change your laptop's motherboard no questions asked. That is top-notch service. In my experience only Apple, Sony and Dell offer such a quality after sales support and service.

    I would avoid HP and Fujitsu-Siemens at all costs. I would also avoid Acers but I believe they are great for their price. I get lots of them for repair, Aspires mainly. Travelmates and above have reliable enough cooling systems so I don't get enough for reflows, mainly other issues like blown fuses or mosfets or bad power plugs.

    I would recommend Sony (quality isn't very good today as it was in the past but support is exceptional), Apple computers (great quality and support but god help you if you are out of warranty and you also need to sell a kidney to buy one), Toshibas (good reliability at a good cost, avarage support), Dells (the same as with Sonys). Also Asus and MSIs where very good in the past. I don't know what is going on now.

    It is essential for any laptop owner to know that a laptop needs to be serviced every 1-2 years. As a rule of thumb, if you hear the fans working at higher speeds and temperature rising a lot in any place that means that your laptop can't dissipate heat out effectively. Give it to someone to clean the cooling system and apply new top quality heat paste like arctic silver on your chips. Or do it yourself. I would buy an Acer, even a Travelmate one just for this: you can do this service without being an expert! All you need is to remove the bottom lid and clear the whole cooling system. If it is a risky model (like an hp pavilion) I would recommend the silicon heat pads to be replaced with copper shims of the correct thickness.

    People are trying to "re-glue" their gpu connections by applying heat using many different appliances found at a house (hair drier, hot paint gun, oven) but I think that none of this methods is sufficient to fix that problem. The reason is that heat should be provided in such a way so as to do the job without causing harm. Believe me, heat will destroy things if not applied correctly. In order to fix bad solder connections (the ones between your GPU and your motherboard) you need to make that solder melt again and then solidify as a unit. People usually think that the two parts will just connect again and become a unit just by providing heat. That is wrong. Also people don't know about temperature melting points of solder.They just know heat will do the job. So they try things. You may end up with a fixed motherboard if you try putting it in your oven but chances are that you may destroy it in a way that will probably make it unfixable even if it really had a chance in the first place. Even if it seems like fixed, chances are that this fix is not permanent and that it will come back in hours, days or even a few months later. This is like trying to fix your broken bike chain with superglue. It may last a little but it's not ok.

    I am not trying to make myself look unavoidable somehow. Every one that want's to try it at home please feel free to contact me and I will provide as much info as possible. I believe know-how should be free and available to anyone so I will be more than happy to provide that info. But without knowing at least a few basics don't try to do home remedies. People where I live charge $60-120 for a fix like this.
    I think it worth the amount considering that a new MB costs no less than $200 ($500 average).
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  • Wow, its nice to get a reply a year later. :)

    Given the notebooks I repair are usually only worth less than $200, my customers seem more than happy with the price I charge them to do the work.

    As, at a guess, less than 5% have come back, I think the technique I use is satisfactory. A lot of those that came back were early ones when I was using a different brand of flux.

    I also explain to the customer, prior to accepting the job, that it may not last, especially in models that are known to run hot, despite adding copper shims, editing BIOS fan settings, etc.

    Now, I could invest money in equipment to improve this process, but the customer's do not want to pay for it. As it is, many decide to use it as an opportunity to upgrade, rather than pouring money into an outdated computer.

    I do all sorts of repair work, to all sorts of hardware, fixing BGA chips is a tiny component of my work, so I personally cannot justify the additional outlay.
    Given that many BGA issues seem to be being resolved as technology moves on, I see fewer reasons to outlay money on new equipment for a diminishing field.

    Yes, there is always a better way to do things, ideally I should remove the chip, re-ball them, and then resolder it, but I've yet found anyone willing to pay the price.

    I will look into the flux you mentioned though.

    In regards to HP fault, you raise some valid points, although Dell are equally as guilty as HP in many respects.

    In regards to Dells, the series I mentioned, Pentium II through to Pentium IV Latitude notebooks, yes, they did break, due to the same design flaw that was never rectified through the years.

    In regards to Dells vs HP vs Sony, etc... after so many years in this industry, I'll stand by my opinions.
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  • I was trying to find a solution for a customers HP dv7 actually. It randomly refuses to post giving caps/num led blinking and in order to revive it you must remove BIOS battery. So I was searching for a solution not knowing how to describe this and trying different keywords on google, I bumped on your post Then I saw the "Get emotional" prompt below the reply box. So since I was already emotional for dealing with this stupid HP laptop and not being able to find a solution I though "What the heck, lets get emotional for now". I wish you I didn't make you feel bad! :)

    I understand your point of view. Actually this is how I started. I was fixing laptops using a heat gun. I didn't have the knowledge or the expertise and I was trying to learn. Then I read a lot and all these equipment was bought piece by piece during these last 6 years that I am doing this. First I got the reworking station for 100 euros. Then, about 2 years later and many failures I understood that the guys who told me to get a preheater or at least use a heating source to have my board heated underneath during the procedure knew what they were talking about. So I bought a preheater. Then I tried to understand my fewer but still existing failures. Then I studied how a profile works and tried to simulate the same conditions. I think it is not very hard.

    Even without spending considerable amount you could skyrocket you success rates (and I also mean on the long term) and also move to more expensive devices. I am not proposing reballing here. I also don't do it. I propose that you do a great long lasting reflow.

    You can't loose anything to try it. Use a bottom heating device like an electric stove for example. It should have some kind of power control. Strip the board from any removable piece. Remove any protective stickers. Use something to fix the board at a small distance of about 1,5 inch away from the stove. Buy one or two k-type temperature meters from ebay. They are like $6 each. Stick the sensors around the chip that you want to reflow. Tape them through their wires on the board using a tape that can stand heat (like aluminum foil tape) to keep them in place. Turn on your heating pad and let the temperature rise to 120C/250F in not less than 3 minutes. If it rises to quickly lower the stove power. Let it stay there for about 5 minutes. Instert your flux below the chip now. If continues rising to much, over 140C/280F, lower the stove power. Then bring the heat gun! Turn it on but watch the temperature. You don't want to rise very quickly. Never go above 4 C degress per second (or 7 F degress per second). Push it until 240C/460F. Stay there until the chip can be moved (try with a precision tool very carefully to poke the chip until you feel that it moves). THAT'S IT. Now remove the heatgun gradually. Again not more than 4C/7F per second! Turn of the stove, let the board cool and you have done a first class reflow with almost no extra cost, just a little more effort. You could also use something like a mic holder to have the heatgun held for you in place and you just checking temperatures and chip movement. This can make your life even more easy and your quality of work better!

    The great thing about the Kingbo flux is that while it is a mildly activated rosin flux, it reacts as good as fully activated rosin fluxes yet it leaves minimal non corrosive residue giving it no clean properties. This means it combines all the advantages of the other categories: works as a strong corrosive flux while it is a no clean flux. Also its tackiness is exceptional making it no1 choice for people that do reballing because it keeps the balls in place. When used for reflow it gets liquid and flowing above about 80C/180F so you can just throw some on the side of the chip and it will be absorbed below the chip just by heating it a little. These properties makes it an all in one exceptional quality all purpose flux. If you are in the US I would suggest that you buy it from XModdz eBay store which is an authorized distributor since there are lots of counterfeits. The truth is that the company that produces this flux is a small company somewhere in Asia who doesn't seem to estimate correctly the value of their product so they don't even have a website, neither do they use authentication methods like hologram stickers. So the only way to be sure is to buy it from an authorized distributor.

    As for laptop brands, everyone is entitled to his opinion of course! You judge by your experiences, I judge by mine. Also I never said Dell is great. They are as faulty as others. What I said about them is that they have exceptional support at least here in Europe. If I knew that someone will come to my house to fix my laptop (Dell) or send a special courier guy to collect it (Sony) and knew that I would have my problem fixed without them trying to do everything to avoid supporting me in order to cut the cost, this is something I would appreciate nowadays even more than actual product quality and robustness.

    It was very nice to have this conversation! :)
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  • I had the same issue with a customers DV5 laptop. It had an AMD Athlon CPU and AMD video GPU. Symptoms were that the caps and Numlock would blink once every 2 seconds. I replace cpu and no luck so i heated the North Bridge and South Bridge AMD Chips and near the northbridge gpu by the cpu there what looked like 4 black memory chips and i heated those. I have a reflow workstation with a heat gun i had the temp at 450 and heated those areas for about 5 min - 10 min. I let everything cool down and hooked everything back up and its working. I would now replace the thermal pad on the heatsink and reapply new thermal paste.
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  • I’m indifferent
    HP Pavillion dv4 Cap Lock/Number Lock LEDs blinking. Code reveals that CPU is not functioning. Where can I buy one to replace it? I refuse to pay someone else for something I can do myself. Will I lose my data stored on the laptop if I replace the CPU?
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  • To the techinicals Guys.. Both are awesome, really the people now toay are not taking the time to fix something, the people just trgught it to trash and bought another one, but I believe that something can be fixed and have saving money on it. I appreciate and i i like a lot reading your opinions and expertise, I ́m not a technical and I dont repair a lot, but my own dv4 has Died, but with this post I will try to send my mother to reball near my town for 50-80 usd, and it it works, I will be glad, case this lap is used by my mother in law to chat, only for that, so the price for a new laptop is ridiculus to be paid for chating, and a new oportinity fixing it, it will be well paid.

    thanks. nice post
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