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What hardware will I need to get this started?

Looking to control a Yamaha AVR, OPPO blu-ray, DVR, EPSON projector, Samsung TV and a Lutron Maestro IR dimmer with iRule. Just started the trial version and was able to log on and set up all of my devices, set up some entrances, etc. I have wireless internet throughout my home. Am I correct in saying that the only piece of hardware I would need is the Global Cache iTach WF2IR to be able to control these 6 IR devices in my media room with my iPad? If not, what devices would be required to make this happen? Thanks in advance...
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  • That may be enough if they are physically arranged so that an infrared "blaster" will be able to illuminate most of them. A standard iTach can drive two dual-head emitters and one "blaster."

    Just a word, though: if you can, connect to an iTach by Ethernet. WiFi can introduce just enough delay and data loss to frustrate you, especially if your network is busy with other tasks like streaming video.

    --Dan in St. Louis
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  • Toby,

    Dan is correct. Also, depending on the model of your Yamaha receiver and whether you have an active LAN connection attached to the receiver you could control it via IP. Thus saving you an IR connection for other devices. You do have the ability to dual emit all 3 emitters on the iTach WiFi2IR gc hardware. Again, I would recommend using hardwired connection whenever possible.

    Scott
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  • Dan & Scott,

    Thanks so much for taking the time to reply. My AVR is a Yammy RX-A1010. When I wired for my media room, I only ran one Cat6 cable down from the modem in my office (above). There is a chance that I may be able to fish another one down but it will be very tricky. Let's say I CAN get a 2nd Cat6 cable down to my rack. Am I correct in saying that I'd leave the first one in my Yammy and then the 2nd would be for the IP2IR? With just one IP2IR unit, I could then control my OPPO, EPSON PJ, DVR, Samsung TV and my Maestro dimmer? I presume there would be some sort of a code that would allow me to control the Yammy via the network? Thanks in advance for all of your guidance...Toby
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  • Toby,

    One easier solution would be to simply add a switch. You have one line, you could add in a switch that will allow for multiple connections to be made. You would then plug a line into you Yamaha and the IP2IR hardware.

    Scott
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  • Scott, excellent idea about the switch. If I am running a line directly to my OPPO is it possible to do the same thing there as I am doing for the Yammy? Then the iTach would just control 4 devices - the PJ, Samsung, DVR and Maestro dimmer. Is that feasible or does the OPPO have to be on the iTach?
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  • Toby, to see what Devices (device drivers, codesets, command sets, ...) exist; click the "Devices" tab, "Actions" menu in the right-side window pane of the Builder.

    Choose "Browse devices" and enter appropriate category and make. Infrared commands are issued by the Devices noted "IR" or not otherwise identified -- RS232 and IP (network) drivers are so labelled.

    Repeat the search on both the "iRule" and "Community" tabs of the search window, as you will find some Devices prepared by iRule and others submitted by users. Once you have "Imported" them you can exactly which commands are supported.

    Hope this helps!

    --Dan in St. Louis

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  • That was very helpful Dan. Much appreciated. I am going to run my existing LAN line into a Netgear switch and then I'll have 3 lines - 1 going to my Yammy, 1 going to my OPPO and 1 to the iTach device. A few more comments/questions...so hopefully you can bare with me. Am I correct in saying that I can have the iTach device behind my rack (out of plain sight of everything) plugged into an outlet? I have combed over the site several times and I cannot find anything that further explains HOW the iTach IP2IR device physically works. I see that it comes with 3 emitters and 1 blaster. I understand that you plug it in for power (US adapter) and that I would plug the IR blaster into the 3rd 3.5mm port (far right). But does the other end of the IR blaster have to be out in plain sight in my room? If emitters plug into the other two 3.5mm ports, where do the ends of the emitters have to be? I am confused and need more information. Perhaps I just need to pick up the phone and call iRule and see if someone can explain where the emitters and blasters go or lead to. I've gone thru all of the specs and the data sheets and I cannot find the answers. I really want to learn and understand this...but I've gone thru all of the lit on the website and I've kinda hit a wall (as you can see). HELP!!! :)
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  • Toby,

    The Oppo player will need either a RS232 or IR emitter for control. I would still recommend plugging a network line into the Oppo, but that would be for your net applications such as Netflix and Pandora.

    The way the emitters work, you plug in the 3.5mm into the back of the iTach units and the other end has an emitter. That emitter needs to stick to the IR pickup of the device. To find that pickup you will need a flashlight, once you shine the light at the front of the device you will see a spot that is a little different from the rest of your gear. Every device is a little different with how the IR pickup appears. You then stick the emitter to that spot.

    The commands that are being sent from the iRule app will be routed through the GC hardware and out the emitter that is attached to your equipment. The IR blaster on the other hand needs to be in a spot in front of your equipment with a clear view of the device itself. An IR blaster does not attach to a device itself, it instead emits a signal to an area. Blasters have less reliability than the other emitters. Blasters are susceptible to interference from outside light. Also when using a blaster you cannot control two of the same devices at once. A blaster would send the same command to both pieces simultaneously. For example, you have two cable boxes but only want to change the channel on one, you would not be able to use a blaster.

    Scott
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  • Toby, it sounds like you have it all figured out. Yes, the iTach can be out of sight. It needs power from either a house receptacle or the included USB cord. It needs an Ethernet connection (or WiFi if necessary), and the cables from the emitters will plug into it. We have successfully spliced abandoned Ethernet feeds into the circuit for the IR Emitters and can run 100' or so -- after all, the current is only a few milliamps.

    The smaller emitters get taped or glued to the front of the A/V equipment. We only partially cover the IR sensor so the manufacturer's IR remote still works. The blaster is pretty strong, but is still somewhat directional so you want it to be able to "see" the equipment's IR sensors and be within a few (5? 10? 15?) feet. I am tempted in my living room to point it at the mirror over the fireplace.................

    --Dan in St. Louis



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  • I assume you only need 100Mb ethernet to your AVR? Your cat6 is probably 4 pair, but fast ethernet only requires *two* pair. You can buy (or make) ethernet "splitters/combiners" that allow a single 4 pair cat5/6 cable to carry two separate 100Mb ethernet connections.

    Even the device supports gigabit ethernet and the switch on the other end does as well, this will still work. Lacking the other pairs it won't be able to negotiate gigabit speed so it'll fall back to fast ethernet.
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  • Thanks again to all that have commented above and helped explain the process in detail. I have a MUCH better understanding of how things work now and what I need to do. I guess the only thing left for me to figure out is how to position the one IR blaster to blast towards the front of the components (with new sensors) in my equipment rack, the EPSON PJ (which will be up in the bulkhead), the Samsung flatscreen (beside the rack) and the Maestro dimmer switch that lies at the landing at the bottom of my stairs. Not sure it is possible to blast to all of those since they are in different areas/directions. How long is the cable for the IR blaster anyway? Below is a photo capturing all of the above and the layout of my room (still under construction of course). The Maestro dimmer switch is circled in red in the very back of the photo!

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